Local surfer, Nick Perganda won the Jacksonville Beach stop of the Bum Rush Tour. Perched on the pier, the Sun Bum judges secretly scored the 25 random surfers who were taking full advantage of the clean shoulder-high conditions not knowing they were in the middle of a 20-minute winner take all contest.
What we wanted was blue-bird skies and fresh powder. What we got was whiteout conditions. But with a sudden showdown that ended with a truly epic ollie, nothing could dampen the stoke when Bum Rush Tour returned to Mammoth.
To help set the scene, there are probably more surfers in Encinitas than there are in the entire country of Jamaica. When you paddle out into the lineup, it’s like slipping into a time warp. Sort of what we imagine surfing in California was like back in the 50’s, when you knew everyone out there because they were the same few dedicated locals, day after day.
After a few croissants, a little too much espresso, and a surf check from our balcony (that just so happened to overlook this iconic surf spot), we rallied the troops and began our trek down the massive dune to the water’s edge.